The Real South Pacific

Almost two hundred years ago, Goethe wrote:

“One should often wish to have been born on one of the South Seas islands in order, just for once, to enjoy human existence in all its purity, without a touch of falseness.”

Evening at the Port of Refuge, Neiafu, Vava’u, Tonga.

Following a quiet dinner overlooking the harbor.

Testing the water, and looking for seashells.

Spending a wonderful afternoon with our new friend Hanite (Nit e) Vuki McClean, exploring Vava’u.

I could definitely tell that our van was two wheel drive!

No matter where we go, we always run across the missionaries!

We also encounter interesting people in the bush. Nit e knew both of them. The man with the head-gear actually spent time in prison in New Zealand (for a murder he insists he did not commit). His name is Tou Tai – Fisherman. (And his last name is Matte – Die 😦

In the village of Utulei, an English doctor and his wife, built their home. He was the first doctor on the island. They lived here for over 50 years, and they died about 15 years ago, when they were in their eighties. His wife, Pat Madison, wrote a very popular book called “My Tongan Home.”

This sea turtle shell was for sale for just $65.00 (U.S.). We resisted the urge to buy it, because the fine for bringing one into the U.S. is about $50,000.00.  (The shell washed up on the beach, we were told).

On hot summer days, the locals sit on their front stoops and quietly ponder the complexities of life.

Laundry always brightens up the day, as we drive around the island.

I am not certain, but I think there’s a good chance this is grizzly bear scat!

There are graveyards everywhere (even in people’s front yards). When another person dies, they dig up the previous occupant, and carefully wash the bones in coconut oil so that the spirit is not upset about being moved. Then they put the bones in a pile in the corner to make room for the new tenant. (They don’t embalm or use caskets – they wrap the body in tapa cloth).

Then, the mourners wear black and the women wear a special grass skirt. The period of mourning used to be for a year but the king thought that was a bit excessive, so he decreed the official period of mourning to be just three months.

Some homes are nice, while others are more modest. The Palangi (white people) often own nicer homes, and are absentee landlords.  Also, many Tongans living abroad send money home to their families, who can then afford nicer dwellings.

Basically, the king owns Tonga. He leases or sells land to the commoners. (There is royalty, the nobles and commoners).  Most people are commoners.

This guy standing with President and Sister Makai from the Mission Presidency is the governor of Vava’u.  He is a member of the royal family, a cousin of the king. (He is the one in the black shirt). He is also a member of the Church!  He really wants to be a normal person. Having said that, he told President Makai that he really likes him, and to show his appreciation for all that President Makai does for the Tongan people, he wants to give him some land (something like 40 acres, or so). Any piece of land he would like, in Tonga. (If there is someone else on the land, the governor would just politely ask him to move).

I tried to impress him that mom and I were volunteers in the Liahona Clinic. However, that didn’t carry the day, regarding our becoming landowners in Tonga, as well.

I thought this was a nice sign, at the entrance to the village of Pangai motu, but then I learned that it means “King’s Island.” The king owns the village (and everything in it). Crazy!